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Oris Men's Big Crown Pointer Date Automatic Watch
Stylish and popular the world over: these new aviation watches have it all. The pointer calendar movement has been an Oris favourite for over 70 years. With sapphire glass for extreme shock and scratch resistance they are equal to the challenges of modern life.
This watch is supplied with:
- - Official Oris presentation packaging
- - Official Oris guarantee
- - Instruction manual (where applicable)
- - 950 Reward points
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Rating Breakdown (Average rating: 4 / 5)
|Very good||(1 review)|
Rating: Very good (4 / 5)
Iíve only had this watch for a few days. Normally, Iíd wait a while longer before posting a review but I notice that Watchshop are not going to restock this item so, I thought that Iíd put my review in early in the hope that it might help one lucky reader on their way to becoming the owner of a really nice timepiece.
I like watches but Iím not a collector. I buy them to use and wear although I am currently in the situation where, even you you discount my two Garmin watches, I have at least two more watches than I actually need Whilst I am prepared to pay ďa lotĒ of money for a watch, normally my definition of what constitutes ďa lotĒ of money only just gets me into the automatic watch market at, what most would consider to be, the entry level. This means that I have to be fairly astute in my purchases.
Although Iím aware of the Oris brand, theyíve never featured on my shortlist largely because they are priced at a level just beyond my budget but also because, when I think Oris, I tend to think of big and chunky diving and aviation watches and big and chunky are the two things that appeal to me least when buying a watch.
However, as this example shows, if youíre not one of those who thinks that bigger has to be better, there are some nice pieces to be found in the Oris range and, it just so happened that, recently I was able to pick up the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date from Watchshop at a discount which brought it just within my budget.
This watch, which comes in at 40mm, has a strong retro feel to it. Oris claims that the pointer date model has its heritage in the 1930s. Iíve seen old magazine advertisements dating from 1938 featuring a watch called the Calendrier, which featured a pointer date and had a similar aesthetic to the Big Crown Pointer Date models although it featured a small second hand at the 6 oíclock position. I havenít researched the history of this model at all but I know that Oris were making a similarly styled Calendrier model in the 1990s but I donít know if the the Big Crown Pointer Date is a direct ancestor to these models.
As with many of the Oris model ranges, the Big Crown Pointer Date is available in several variations which can feature:
a black or a silver dial
metal bracelets or leather straps
a date pointer on the outer or inner watch face
the addition of gold coloured or plated detailing on the face, case and / or bracelet
At the moment, Oris lists 14 variations of the Big Crown Pointer Date model in the 40mm size there is also an ďOriginal Pointer DateĒ series which features a more traditional Plexiglass rather than sapphire crystal as well as a few other minor cosmetic alterations which give the watch an even more authentic retro vibe. The problem with all this variety is that, whilst you might be able to find something to your tastes in the Oris catalogue, it can be a little more difficult to track down your chosen specimen in the wild. So, I was very pleased to come across my preferred variation on Watchshop.
I tend to prefer watches with white or silver faces. This model features gold coloured numerals on a silver dial with an attractive guilloche pattern around the outer dial. Although Iím not normally a fan of gold on a watch, I felt that, in this instance, the gold colouring added to the 1930s retro styling. The dial features Arabic numerals at the 2,4,6,8,10 and 12 oíclock positions. Normally, a mixture of index markers and Arabic numerals tends not to appeal to me but, in this case, in terms of the overall aesthetics of the watch, it works quite well. There are Big Crown Pointer Date models with a full set of Arabic numerals, but, at the moment, this variation is only available in the black face designs.
If you donít like the gold then, Oris also makes a variation featuring silver numerals on a silver dial and the pointer date on the inner rather than outer dial but I didnít like the look of this version as much as the gold on silver version. I also felt that the gold on silver version would offer better contrast and would therefore be more legible than the all silver version.
Having said that, as someone with fairly poor eyesight, I find that, whilst the gold on silver is perfectly legible in normal lighting conditions, if the lighting is poor and Iím not wearing my glasses, it can be difficult to differentiate between the hands unless I stand at the other side of the room!, so, anyone with similar problems might want to take a look at one of the black dialled models.
Anyone with poor eyesight might want to steer clear of the Big Crown Pointer Date model as the dates around the outer or, in some models, inner dial are fairly small and I would be unable to read them without my glasses Having said that, I canít read the date of my big date perpetual calendar watch without my glasses.
When itís almost completely dark, the lumibrite kicks in. I havenít had the watch for long enough to judge how good the lumibrite is but my initial assessment is that, whilst youíre not going to be able to rely on the glow of the lumibrite to act as a beacon for passing aircraft, it should enable you to be able to read the time in the dark. I certainly have less trouble reading the time in the dark without my glasses on that I do with reading the time in poor light.
The watch features a Sapphire crystal but, as Iíve mentioned previously, if you want to be more authentic to the retro feel of the watch, you can go for one of the ďOriginal Pointer DateĒ models, which features with a plexiglass crystal.
Flipping the watch over reveals a display back, which is covered by mineral glass and the ďtraditionalĒ trademark Oris red rotor.
To be honest, Iím not a fan of the red rotor: whilst, as a long running maker of mechanical Swiss watches that has managed to remain independent of the giant Swatch group, there is much to be said for the brand, to my mind, the ďtraditionalĒ red rotor, which, in reality has only been a feature of Oris watches since the early years of the 21st century smacks of them trying a bit too hard to create a story for the brand and, in my opinion, the end result makes the brand come over as a little bit kitsch.
The internals feature something, which Oris describes as the ďOris 754Ē movement. Having just criticised them for their red rotor trademark, I think that Oris deserve some praise when it comes to how they describe their movements as, unlike some manufacturers, who will go to some lengths to disguise the true origins of their ďin houseĒ movements, Oris are very upfront in saying that their movement is strongly based upon theSellita SW200-1. To all intents and purposes, the Sellita SW200-1 is interchangeable with the ubiquitous ETA 2824-2 although the Sellita version does contain one extra jewel compared to the ETA equivalent. The ubiquity of these movements means that all should bode well for the long term as, if your watch ever did require any major surgery many years down the line, any good watchmaker should be fully conversant with the internals and would have little difficulty in sourcing spare parts.
Once adjusted at a local Goldsmiths thanks to Watchshopís free resizing service, I found the fit of the watch to be supremely comfortable to such an extent that I barely notice its presence. In addition to removing links, for a more precise fitting, the watch also features a three position adjustment on the clasp, which, gives a further level of finer adjustment which, I think, is equivalent to a plus or minus one link adjustment in half link steps.
The watch features a screw down crown. Unscrewing the crown enables the watch to be wound manually and pulling it out to its first position enables the date to be adjusted. Pulling the crown out to the second position allows for the setting of the time. My one criticism of this watch is that, whilst the crown clicks solidly into the second position, my watch seems to feel a bit imprecise when I try to engage the first position. Iíve only really fiddled with the date when I set the watch originally so, hopefully, it might feel a bit better when I set it again at the end of the month.
Although Iíve only had this watch a few days, so far, Iíve been deeply impressed with its accuracy. My understanding is that Oris uses, movements that would be described in ETA terminology as ďElaborate gradeĒ which should prove to be more accurate than the standard movement Sellita, also divides its movements into four classes which correspond to the ETA classification .
On the first day, my watch ran at +2 the second day, it ran at +-0! on the third day it ran at +3. The last two days itís been running at +4. This may be a sign of the movement bedding in but, for the first two days the watch was being worn on the wrist and, on the day when it ran almost perfectly, it was being worn 24/7 whilst, for the last few days, itís been languishing in a winder so, with a bit of luck, once I start wearing it regularly, the accuracy will settle to near chronometer levels.
Although Iím probably going to take a mark off for the red rotor and the slightly spongy date adjustment, I am deeply impressed by this watch and, if you like the look I would have no hesitation in recommending it.
Other independent review sources for this product
Oris watches for men have been under production in Switzerland for over a century, perfecting traditional watch-making techniques and developing a range of styles. The purely mechanical function of Oris watches draws on many years of expertise and each watch is crafted to the highest of precision standards in timeless fashion. Oris watches have been worn by Formula 1 race drivers, top-level aviation experts, divers and jazz musicians, standing testament to both the reliability and stylish design of the brand. Indeed, you can explore the separate Oris lines intended to match motorsport, aviation, cultural and diving lifestyles.
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